Last month, while attending a conference in the greater Chicago area, I had the opportunity to drop in on what is fast becoming one of my favorite restaurants. This would be JoyYee, an establishment which does better than any other to dispel the "jack of all cuisines, master of none" stigma that plagues (and admittedly, in most cases, deservedly so) pan-Asian eateries. Having dined there (if partaking in boba smoothies and appetizers counts as dining) there three times in the span of a week, I had the opportunity to explore vast tracts of their extensive menu and came away with a burning desire to replicate one particular dish, which consisted of a whole grilled cuttlefish adorned with a thick black sauce. Soon after I returned to O'ahu, a friend's visit afforded me the opportunity to try my hand at what I am guessing was probably inspired primarily by an Indonesian dish called cumi kecap.
The results... well, suffice it to say that I rank this as one of the ten best dishes I have ever created. Two other parties offered similar, glowing reviews. While the dish did not precisely replicate JoyYee's cuttlefish, all unanimously agreed that it surpassed the dish which inspired it in nearly every way — which given the already high quality of the original, is high praise indeed. But enough vaunting: let's get to the recipe.
The Squid:
- 1 whole medium squid
- ½ tsp. soy sauce
- ⅛ tsp. salt
The Sauce:
- 3 Tbsp. gluten-free soy sauce
- ¼ tsp. fish sauce
- 2 Tbsp. water
- 1 Tbsp. cooking sherry
- ½ tsp. sesame oil
- 2 tsp. raw cane sugar
- ⅛ tsp. salt
- 1 pinch cinnamon
- 1 pinch cardamom
- 1 small pinch cumin
Set the oven to broil and preheat it to 375° Fahrenheit. Rinse the squid under cold water and remove the eyes, beak, and digestive organs with a knife. Grease a suitably-sized cookie sheet with sesame oil. Place the entire squid on it, sprinkle half of the salt and soy sauce over it, and broil for 15-20 min. While the squid is cooking, combine the soy sauce, fish sauce, oil, cardamom, cumin, and cinnamon in a small saucepan and simmer on medium heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture attains the consistency of molasses. Remove the squid from the oven, flip it over with a spatula, and sprinkle the remaining soy sauce and salt on the newly exposed side. Return the squid to the oven for another 15-20 minutes or until the exterior is browned but the flesh is still tender. Add the remaining ingredients to the sauce and continue to reduce the mixture, while stirring frequently, until the squid is done.
Place the squid in a shallow bowl or serving dish and pour approximately half of the sauce over it. Transfer the remaining sauce to a small bowl for dipping the rings and tentacles in. Serve with rice (which can also benefit from the use of the remaining sauce as condiment).
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